Lawn installation in North York

Today we will talk about such an interesting material as rolled turf. This is a very popular today ground covering not only on country plots. We will tell you how the lawn installation in North York is carried out correctly, about some of the nuances of the process.

And also designate the positive and negative sides of the rolled lawn. Understand this topic, you can easily control the masters who entrusted you to lay rolled lawns on your property. So to speak, to be with them “on the same wave”.

What is a rolled lawn

In fact, it is grass, which is planted on a special base. As the latter, sacking, cardboard or plastic mesh is used. The basis is laid on a flat surface, this can be a ground area or racking equipment.

Pour a layer of sod soil mixed with peat and sand on it. The main task is to bring the acidity of the mixture to neutral, as in nature. The thickness of the poured layer is 3-5 cm.

After preparation, the grass seeds are sown. As soon as the plants rise to a height of 10 cm, they are cut down. So do two or three times to strengthen the root system. After 2 months, the covering material is ready.

Manufacturers most often offer grass mats that are 2 m long, 0.4 m wide and 2-2.5 cm thick.

Lawn Installation technology

Lawn installation technology is divided into two main stages: preparation and laying the lawn itself.

Preparatory stage

First of all prepare the site itself, which is decided to lay rolled grass. To do this, remove debris, stones, pull weeds. Then prepare the drainage system. Do it this way:

• Remove the top layer of soil to a depth of 20 cm.
• Pour a layer of pebbles, which are aligned on the horizon.
• The next layer of sand. It is leveled and tamped.
• Pour the selected soil.
• Conduct soil rolling with a metal roller.

If the soil on the site is sandy, then the drainage system is not necessary. It will only be necessary to clear the area and level it.

And the last process in the preparatory stage is marking. If the landscaped area is large enough, it is recommended to divide it into strips. That is, at the edge of the site are hammered into the pegs with a pitch equal to the width of the roll turf.

Do the same on the opposite side. After that, the pegs are connected to each other with twine.

Note that the grass should not be higher than the garden paths after sprouting. And if you take into account that its height does not exceed 5 cm, then, relying on this indicator, the alignment of the site is carried out.

Basic stage

In principle, there is nothing difficult about it. It is necessary to spread the rolls evenly near each other, leaving no visible gaps. It is important to lay the first roll correctly. That is, parallel to the edge of the area in which the material is rolled out.

Since the rolls themselves have a certain length, then often each of them does not cover the length or width of the area. Therefore, the rolls are staggered. This is when the edge of one of them lies side by side, but to the middle of the cloth.

When the entire site will be covered with grass, soil mixed with sand is sprinkled between the laid strips. In this way, the edges of the laid roll are protected.

And a few more peculiarities of lawn installation in North York:

• The gap between the grass materials should not exceed 1 cm.
• It is forbidden to lay rolls overlapping.
• No segments from bales of less than 1 m in length should be laid. The edges of the material are the most vulnerable areas that do not take root.
• Lawn installation in bales is better to be done in dry and not hot weather.
• During hot weather the grass is watered abundantly and several times a day.

During installation, the spreading is carried out from one side of the landscaped area to the other. It is forbidden to step on the unfolded rolls.

If there is a reason to step on the installed lawn, it is better to put a wide flat object under your feet. For example, a sheet of plywood, or at least a board. Thus, the point load, which can damage the grass, will be reduced.

After 15-20 days, the first mowing is carried out. Experts recommend keeping the height of the grass no more than 5 cm. Although this is just a recommendation.

How to care for your lawn

So, the lawn installation is done, the site is watered, what’s next. The main task falls on the owner of the site. And it is not to dry out the laid material, so the grass should be watered all the time.

By the way, to understand whether the laid grass layer is dry or not, you should periodically lift the outermost layer. If the layer itself is wet, it is normal. If it is dry, you will have to increase the volume or frequency of watering.

The recommended dose of water for irrigation is 10-15 liters per 1 m2 of the laid plane. Keep in mind that this should be adhered to in the first two weeks after laying. After that, the frequency can be reduced.

How to choose the right one

Today, there are a huge number of manufacturers who offer rolled lawns. Therefore, a person unfamiliar with the intricacies of the device of the proposed materials, it is difficult to choose a quality product. Therefore, a few tips.

So, what should be a lawn in rolls:

• With a good root system, where a large number of stubs of white color should stand out.
• The thickness of the turf layer along the whole length of the strip should be the same within the range of 2-4 cm.
• The soil should not be too clayey or too sandy. It should not contain stones.
• The color of the grass should be succulent and the same all over the plane.
• There should be no pests in both the soil layer and the grass layer.
• Complete absence of gaps, which indicate poor quality of the material offered.
• The grass should be mowed.

It should be noted that some unscrupulous manufacturers in this way try to hide some flaws in the vegetation. A quality layer should have a small bevel so that the quality of the grass is clearly visible. An optimum grass height is 3 cm.

And the mowing should be even over the whole area.

Buy the material that has been removed from the turf on the day of sale. If you are offered an old, stale product, it will give off the smell of stale grass, and the tips of the cover will be yellowed.

Pros and cons

Let’s start with the positive characteristics.

• There is no need to prepare the soil, sow grass and take care of young greenery.
• Ready green cover easily tolerates low frosts, drought and is immune to various diseases.
• Does not allow weeds to grow.
• Easy maintenance.
• Long-term operation.

And the characteristics are negative.

• High price. The price depends on the greened area. The greater the latter indicator, the lower the price.
• A large number of low-quality products on the modern market. You can buy a material that simply will not take root or will last one season.
• Service life is much lower than that of seed lawn.

Conclusion on the topic

So, we have disassembled the topic, in which great emphasis was placed on the technology of lawn installation in North York from the rolled seeding material. This process is actually not difficult, but it has many pitfalls, ignorance of which will lead to a decrease in the quality of the final result. That’s why you should invite specialists and make sure they do everything correctly – the specialists of “Captain Handy” company always do everything correctly!

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Sod laying in Toronto

Proper sod laying is the key to the longevity of lawns on any site.

The specialists of Captain Handy know all the details and peculiarities of the proper installation of roll lawn.

We carry out lawn laying at a reasonable price. Lawn in rolls is mainly used for this purpose. Thanks to the material all works on lawn laying are carried out in the minimum time.

Rules of sod laying in Toronto

The laying of rolled sod is carried out with the observance of certain rules:

• Installation of the material should be carried out immediately after its delivery. Rolled turf should not be stored for a long time. Otherwise it falls into disrepair. Watering the lawn in rolls does not save the situation. The maximum duration of storage of such a lawn is 1 day.
• Before laying the sod, preparatory work should be carried out. It is recommended to do them at least 2 weeks before the expected date of laying the lawn.
• The soil before laying the sod should be dug out in advance and cleaned of foreign objects, weeds, etc. A chemical solution may be used to remove unwanted plants.
• The surface of the plot is carefully leveled and tamped with the use of special devices and tools.
• Before laying the rolled sod, fertilizers are added to the soil, the surface is watered.

If laying rolled sod in Toronto or Mississauga on clay-rich soil, it is important to remove at least 400 mm of topsoil. In addition, a cushion of crushed stone and sand is arranged. A layer of fertile soil is poured on top.

It is important to know that the top point should be a few centimeters below the level of footpaths.

The most favorable time when the laying of rolled lawn on a turnkey basis is spring. This allows the root system of the rolled lawn to fully adhere to the ground. While laying sod in autumn there is a risk of its death as a result of low air temperatures.

Stages of sod laying work

Before ordering the laying of rolled lawn, you should estimate the size of the site and, consequently, the amount of work. It is important to install the turf as quickly as possible. If you plan to lay rolled sod on a large area, it is best to carry out the work in stages.

In this case, only the number of turf rolls that can be laid during one working day is delivered.

Peculiarities of works on laying sod in Toronto:

• You should start sod laying on the side where the rolls are stored. This minimizes the chance of damage to the sod surface.
• When laying rolled turf, ensure that the seams of the previous row are offset. A similar technique is used when laying a brick wall.
• It is important that the roll sod rows fit closely together. The maximum allowable distance is 15 mm.
• To avoid displacement of the canvases, it is recommended to fix the edges with the help of stakes. They are placed in the corners of the lawn.
• Each row is compacted with a small roller. This ensures the maximum adhesion of the surfaces. Sod should not be compacted with your feet. It can damage the lawn.
• After laying, the sod is thoroughly watered. If it is too dry or insufficient, the grass will quickly wither away. A 1 – 2 bucket of water per m2 of lawn is enough. The liquid must soak into the grass.
• The seams in rolled turf should be thoroughly filled with soil. It is important that no gaps are left between the individual sheets, through which moisture will penetrate.

A wooden hammer is used to hammer the turf to make laying the lawn easier.

If there are flowerbeds on the site, the fabric is cut to the shape of the obstacle. Rolled sod is easy to reshape. A knife is used to cut it. Various improvised means can also be used.

It is desirable that the work on laying sod in Toronto is carried out by experienced professionals who are familiar with the subtleties and pitfalls of these works.

Lawn care after installation

During the first week after sod laying, the lawn should be watered daily with an adequate amount of water. Thereafter, the frequency is reduced to once every 2 days. If the air temperature rises significantly, the frequency may be increased.

After 14 days of laying the lawn, the vegetation can be cut. Only a few centimetres of grass are cut. To do this, a traditional lawnmower is used, which has an adjustable blade height.

It is important that the technique is of high quality. If the grass is not cut well, the grass begins to turn yellow, and areas of lawn with gaps appear.

After mowing, the vegetation must always be removed from the rolled lawn. Otherwise it will rot. At the same time, the turf also deteriorates. This is caused by a disruption in the oxygen supply to the grass.

Vegetation needs to be carefully cared for.

This is the only way to achieve a long life. It is recommended to water the lawn only in the evening. Daytime or morning watering will result in sunlight hitting the vegetation.

In this case, the droplets act as a lens. As a result, the plants get burned and die.

Lawn fertilizers should be applied immediately after winter.

Often puddles form on the surface as a result of snow melting. Excessive moisture leads to rotting of vegetation. To avoid this, experts advise gently piercing the surface of the lawn with a pitchfork.

Lawn care can be entrusted to specialized companies that have affordable prices for sod laying rolls and all related services, including fertilizers.

Why to order sod laying services in the company “Captain Handy”.

Our company offers a full range of services. Customers have the opportunity to order the sod itself, the design of landscape design, directly – laying, etc.

However, this is not the only advantage of cooperation with our company. The pluses also include:

• Price. We have a very democratic price sod laying in Toronto and Mississauga. Price sod laying in our company is much lower than our competitors. The final price may depend on various factors. However, in any case it will be tempting.
• Knowledge of secrets. The specialists of our company are familiar with all the pitfalls that can arise in the course of lawn laying work. This allows us to avoid a mass of problems with the vegetation and achieve a long service life.
• Quality. Masters of our company observe the technologies and stages of execution of works on laying of lawn. Thus, the maximum efficiency is achieved. The high quality is confirmed by numerous real reviews of our clients. The firm cares about its reputation.

Captain Handy has all the necessary equipment and vehicles for cheap sod laying near me in 1 day.  Clients do not have to hire expensive equipment on their own, pay for downtime, etc. This makes the final price sod laying per m2 looks even more attractive.

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Certainly lovely sodding grass form a dense and beautiful green cover in Toronto.  Exquisite grasses have a somewhat slower growth when laid, but they also grow slowly once fully established. Intensive care at the laying stage predestines the lawn for a superb appearance. Industrial grass seed mixes have faster growth when establishing a lawn and faster growth of the grass stand. Industrial grass mixtures do not require additional care during laying.

Sodding grass – Determining location

A sodding grass does not have to be horizontal. Slopes can also make beautiful lawns. A good layout is important. The uncultivated soil should be properly planned for later seed placement.

Sometimes a small slope down from the house is often more advantageous.

In this case, you can level the bottom layer of soil to achieve a highly decorative lawn. In many cases, it may be necessary to remove the topsoil before leveling. After leveling, the topsoil is returned to its original place and shaped to the same thickness.

• The use of lawn netting also achieves the creation of a lawn on slopes with a high slope.
• To strengthen slopes, you can also use industrial grass mixtures designed to strengthen slopes and gullies.

Preparing the soil

The best lawns are obtained on sandy loam soils.

If you have clay soils, in order to create a better root zone, it is recommended to pour a layer of sand with a thickness of 5 – 15 cm. Peat is usually not added. The top layer of soil is mixed to a depth of 10 – 20 cm, so that no lumps remain. For compaction, it is better to tamp the soil on small areas with your feet, on large areas use a lawn roller.

All work on mixing and preparing the soil should be carried out on dry soil.

Treating the soil Seeding layer

Prepare the seed bed for laying your lawn very carefully. Make sure that your drainage system goes through the soil layer in which the roots develop.

The soil is pre-cultivated to a depth of 10 – 15 cm.

If you have recently built a house or moved into a new house, remove construction debris (stones, bricks, large chips, etc.) and all other unnecessary items. Never plow it all up, as you will create unfavorable conditions for the grass root system to develop, and you risk damaging your equipment in the process of taking care of the lawn.

Root out the stumps (if you do not want to use them for decorative purposes), remove the shoots of trees.

How to remove weeds from a lawn

If the soil has not been cultivated for some time, it will be a good idea to free it of weed seeds before sowing grass or before laying sodding grass, otherwise they will germinate and cause trouble in the newly planted lawn. The best way is to loosen the entire area at regular intervals as weeds emerge, until the best time to sow the grass is right.

Weeds are usually eliminated by one of two methods:

1. Mechanical – Pull out large dead or growing stems of perennial and annual weeds.  Then everything else as low as possible mow or do a weeding;
2. Chemical (the most effective) – treat vegetating weeds with herbicide of continuous action.  Such preparations decompose in the soil not immediately and retain their effect for several days, so sowing should be carried out at the time recommended for each drug (on average, 3-4 weeks after spraying). During this time you can carry out the rest of the soil preparation operations.

Preparing for sowing

Before sowing, the whole area to be sown should be planned out definitively. The purpose of planning is to get rid of bumps, holes, hillocks and hollows. In areas with small bumps and pits, it is better to fill in a fertile layer of soil from elsewhere. It is not necessary to create a horizontal surface on the site – it can have a slope that saves the lawn from stagnant water.

A wooden bar can be used for this purpose. If the leveling allows, the soil is leveled with a rake to loosen a few centimeters of the top layer.

Lumps, stones, weeds etc. should be removed. If you brought in new fertile soil, level it. Plant soil if the thickness of the fertile layer of soil on the site is less than 10 cm.

On uneven areas, remove the top layer of soil and level the ground, then return the removed layer of soil in place.

Check the levelness with a long plank or step ladder.

Drainage

Drainage is done in areas where water stagnates after rains, watering sodding grass, melting snow.

Before returning the fertile layer of soil removed during leveling, pour a layer of gravel of large stones or broken bricks 10-15 cm in height on the non fertile soil and tamp it well. Then lay a layer of small stones or sand 15 cm high and also tamp. After all that, return the removed fertile layer of soil to its place.

So the soil profile of your plot will look like this:

• 15-20 cm fertile layer;
• 10-15 cm layer of sand or small stones;
• 10-15 cm a layer of large stones;
• Then there is a layer of infertile soil.

In-soil irrigation system for sodding grass

Creating an in-soil irrigation system is a process that requires proper calculation. If you decide to create such a system, consider the following:

The water pump pressure must match your irrigation system, ensuring it is fully loaded;

• there must be enough water for at least one irrigation;
• The water tank, timer, and pump must be located in a warm place to avoid damage to the system due to frost and freezing temperatures;
• it is better to use metal pipes or sturdy mastic or reinforced hoses to transport water inside the soil;
• Do not allow water in the system to freeze in winter, which can cause pipes and hoses to burst.
• Blow out the system after the last irrigation, using a compressor or water pump if equipped to do so;
• lay the system in deeper layers of soil where water does not freeze (this is only possible in regions with warm winters);
• before burying the system in the soil, test its operation in different modes (watering, blowing), placing the system on the surface of the site.

Sodding grass fertilizers in Toronto

Fertilizer with special granules contains all the main macro-and microelements in a balanced ratio, which guarantees the normal development of the root system of the lawn.  Humic compounds contribute to the full development of the lawn, preserving the stable green color of the grass for the whole vegetation period. Wrapping the pellets with their roots, the grasses consume mineral elements gradually.

Mineral compounds increase the absorption of useful substances up to 98%.  They remain in the soil for a long time, continuing their effect for two years.

When using other grass mixtures, in order to improve the overall fertility in nutrient-poor soils it is recommended to apply a basic fertilizer before digging, which can be both organic (peat, manure) and mineral.

Apply organic fertilizer for sodding grass in spring or autumn.

When applying mineral fertilizer in the spring, use a compound fertilizer containing nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, or a three-component mixture thereof.

If fertilizing in the fall, use a nitrogen-free fertilizer (superphosphate, potassium salt, etc.). Apply the mineral fertilizer 1-2 days before plowing (re-cultivation) in the doses indicated on the fertilizer packages.

Sodding grass seeding and watering

An uncomplicated process requires certain operations to be performed correctly.

Before sowing the grass mixture for sodding grass is thoroughly mixed.

Sow in windless weather, you can immediately after you have finished loosening the soil and leveled its surface.

In order to avoid footprints on loose soil, as well as to ensure a more uniform burial of seeds, it is recommended to compact the top layer of soil just before sowing, using a roller, lawn roller, wide board, sheet of plywood or other improvised means. On light (sandy, sandy loam) soil, trampling is also recommended.

Using an ordinary or fan rake, lightly loosen the top layer of soil to a depth of up to 3 cm.

There are two ways of sowing:

• By hand;
• Using a special sowing machine.

If you prefer to sow your sodding grass by hand, divide the seeds into four equal parts and sow them from four sides: 1/4 along the plot, 1/4 in the opposite direction, 1/4 from left to right, 1/4 from right to left. A simpler option: divide the seeds into two parts. Sow one part in one direction, the other part in the opposite direction.

When sowing with a seeder, divide the seeds into two equal parts and sow in longitudinal and transverse directions.

After spreading the grass mixture, you can rake the soil slightly so that a layer of earth no thicker than 5 mm covers the seeds.

To prevent the seeds from being blown away by the wind and pecked out by birds, it is recommended to slightly compact (roll) the soil using any improvised means. A net swath is preferred to a smooth swath. Using a net swath is an easy and effective way to get the seeds into the topmost layer of soil, the surface remains homogeneous and no crust is formed on it.

Do not roll the lawn when the soil is wet.

An important activity when sowing seeds is watering. Do this in the evening, as watering during the daytime can do more harm to the seeds than good.

Water the area abundantly, but don’t allow puddles until the grass grows 1 – 2 cm. Then water as needed. Water by gentle irrigation or sprinkling to avoid puddles.

Do not walk on the grass until it reaches 6 – 8 cm in height.

To avoid all the complications and potential mistakes, we recommend contacting the real experts in lawn, roll grass, and sodding grass Toronto – “Captain Handy”!

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Can artificial turf be perfect for your garden? Who wouldn’t want the perfect lawn? Every one of your neighbors will look at your lawn with envy, and every picture taken in your backyard will remind your friends and family how great your stunning lawn is. Unfortunately, with today’s busy lifestyles, lawn care can often get pushed further and further down the list of priorities.

Who has time to pick up weeds, mow the lawn, water and repeat every week? If you want the perfect lawn without the ridiculous maintenance, consider installing an artificial turf! From the many options available, including artificial turf, there is an option that fits both your needs and your lifestyle.

Artificial turf in Toronto

Installing an artificial turf in your garden will be the best choice you will ever make. If you’re a little concerned about its appearance, it won’t look “fake”: the latest technology has developed synthetic grass fibers that look natural and fresh. The blades can look and feel very similar to the natural grass on your artificial lawn.

Today, artificial turf comes in a variety of colors, fiber lengths (pile heights) and weaves. A number of styles are available that look very natural and are pleasant to the touch. Looks great all year round.

Minimal maintenance of artificial turf

Taking care of real grass and keeping it looking its best is usually expensive and requires a lot of your time. Who really wants to spend their free time on weekends mowing and trimming, fertilizing or weeding their lawn? Or, if you’re paying someone to do it, add another expense to the family budget.

With an artificial lawn, you won’t have to think about that anymore. It means an end to hours of mowing and weeding, and the result is a garden that looks great all year round without the hard work. Watering In most areas of the Canada, lack of rain is not a problem, the opposite is probably true!

Artificial lawns can live for weeks or months at a time, left alone. They only need an occasional wipe down to get rid of stuck leaves, plastic and other debris with a stiff broom. You also don’t have to worry about children and pets tearing and destroying anything.

No matter how much sunlight or how often it rains, your artificial lawn will stay green and lush. It requires regular washing, but not too often.

Good for the environment.

Artificial grass for the garden is eco-friendly and promotes water conservation compared to natural grass. Artificial grass will prevent the use of fertilizers and pesticides that can cause water and air pollution.

Save your money.

Homeowners use artificial turf because it is considered a more economical option compared to using natural grass. Although the latter is known to be cheaper in terms of installation costs, artificial grass seems like a smart choice.

Cost At first glance, it may not seem like artificial turf could be cheaper or more affordable than the real thing. However, while there is a certain initial cost to cover, once you do, you will start saving time and money every year.

Artificial turf will last 6-10 years and you won’t have to spend a dime on it. Think about the financial savings you could save on weed killers, fertilizers, lawn mowers or a gardener in ten years.

You can save a lot of money because of the minimal maintenance of an artificial lawn. There is no need to buy or use a lawn mower to mow long, growing lawns. You won’t water them from time to time because they won’t dry out. You also don’t need to seed or fertilize them.

In other words, if you’re more concerned about saving money in the long run and improving the look of your home, start improving the look of your lawn with our synthetic grass.

Exactly the right size for your yard or backyard

The great thing about synthetic grass is that it can be adapted to any size front or back yard. Even if you have windy paths, pebbles, bricks or other landscaping elements, artificial grass can be installed around these areas. This creates a seamless, clean look that blends well with any yard.

In addition, artificial grass blends well with natural plants and flowers in any front and back yard, creating a healthy surface that looks like a natural lawn. Artificial grass is designed to withstand watering or automatic irrigation that other plants and flowers need. A state-of-the-art drainage system allows you to manually drain water and liquids, which makes it easy. This way, you don’t have to worry about getting your grass wet.

Conclusion:

With realistic, minimal maintenance, economy and durability, whether you have a front yard or a backyard, this would be a good decision if you decide to install a synthetic lawn in your garden. It can even increase the value of your property and at the same time save you time and money.

Lawn care

Lawns in the garden are said to be low-maintenance. You don’t mow or water your lawns – and they grow just fine. The grass mixture for an artificial home lawn is assembled from crops that require attention. Therefore, proper lawn care is a must!

How often should I water my lawn?

It is best to care for and water the turf in the evening or early in the morning. During the day, especially if the sun is blazing, the water evaporates more quickly and the plants have no time to soak up the moisture. Moisture penetrates deep into the soil during the night, saturating the roots of the plants.

Water your lawn with a drip rather than a trickle so you don’t damage the stems or erode the soil around the plantings.

How much watering?

Depends on the soil, the time of the previous watering, and the weather. It is problematic to come up with an exact watering rate. Water the lawn abundantly, but not until puddles appear. To understand whether the grass has enough moisture, check the soil to a depth of 100 mm. If it’s dry, increase the watering.

How to water the lawn correctly?

It also depends on the soil and the weather. In hot weather water the meadow on sandy soils twice a week, in cool weather – once every 10 days. Lawns on clay or loam are not water intensive. Irrigate the grass as needed, the soil should have time to dry out.

Water the lawn with your own hands

What to water with?

Guided by the size of the site and the availability of equipment. There are several options:

Watering with your own hands with a garden hose with a spray nozzle. When choosing a hose, pay attention to the number of layers. The more there are, the longer the hose will last. The top layers are designed to protect against the sun, the middle layers are reinforcing, and the inner layers do not allow the development of simple algae. In addition, the hose should be lightweight.

Automatic watering with irrigation systems (sprinklers). Sprinklers – because they simulate raindrops, based on the work of sprinklers and atomizers, which disperse the water jet.

They can be unadjustable circular. They are optimal for small lawns. Several sprinklers can be combined into a system and connected to one water source. You can also set a timer to turn on.

Movable models rotate to irrigate areas one at a time.

Irrigation systems are often hidden underground. They are optimal for large areas, more than 6 acres. Sprinklers in such systems can be aboveground or underground (recessed), which are retracted only during irrigation.

It is not easy to conduct underground irrigation systems with your own hands. Usually this is done by specialists-engineers.

Lawn mowing

Lawn mowing is not just a matter of aesthetics. Cutting the grass is necessary for the vegetative development of plants. This way they bush better. Their rhizomes grow and create a dense turf.

What’s the right way to cut my lawn?

Mow when it is dry. But if the grass is overgrown, it’s better to mow when it’s cloudy or early in the morning – when there is plenty of dew. Lawn mower blades are less likely to get dull.

The grass tilts in the direction you mow, so change the direction of the mower with each cut. The grass will be dense and straight. And if you mow on time, you won’t have any gaps that occur due to poor light penetration in the lower parts of the grass.

It is better to collect the grass cuttings and put them in compost. Mulch makes an excellent organic fertilizer, rich in trace elements and humus. On hot days you can leave mowing on the mowed area for 2-3 days to retain more moisture in the soil.

How often should I mow the lawn?

Mowing the lawn too often is not necessary. On average, it is done once every 1-2 weeks, so that the grass has time to grow, get stronger and transfer energy to develop the root system.

The first mowing after winter is different than usual. Mow the meadow when the grass has grown to 10 cm. Mow on ⅓ of a stalk to allow the grass to recover faster after the cold weather. Set the mower blade at its highest level, at least 8 cm. This procedure will slow the growth of weeds. After a few “over the top” cuts, they will stop growing altogether. For the rest of the time, cut more, but leave at least 40 mm if the grass is growing intensively. Too short stems weaken the roots faster and the soil dries out more often. Leaving the grass longer will weaken the stems.

If you don’t know when the last time you mowed grass, use the weather as a guide. Grass grows at a temperature of 5 °C or more. Keep an eye on the temperature to decide when you want to mow last.

What should I mow my lawn with?

To avoid making the mowing of the meadow a heavy chore, choose the “right” tool.

Electric or gasoline trimmer is more convenient to mow than the usual lithe mower. The trimmer is light and maneuverable, but noisy in operation. With a scythe there is no such problem, but it requires skill and quickly becomes blunt.

Lawn mowers make mowing easier. Unlike trimmers, they have grass collectors that collect and shred the mowing. You won’t have to rake the grass like the old-fashioned way. When choosing a mower, pay attention to the power of the motor. The more powerful, the tougher it is.

Electric mowers are easy to use: there’s no need to fill up with gasoline and oil. But you have to worry that the wire won’t get under the knife, that the engine won’t burn, that the wire will be enough for the whole perimeter of the lawn…

Gasoline models are more practical. If the mower has a 2.5 mm line, you can cut even raspberries and currants. By buying removable attachments, you can easily turn your lawn mower into a cultivator or snowblower.

Riders and mini-tractors mow large areas that are difficult to care for by hand.

How to remove moss and weeds from a lawn

Moss in the field appears because of unevenness of the soil, strong compaction or high acidity of the soil, as well as a lack of nutrients and poor soil drainage. Too low cuttings and heavy shading also contribute to its appearance.

To remove moss, determine and eliminate its causes. Level the soil. If the soil is acidic, lime it. For nutrient-deficient soil, a complex fertilizer is necessary. To eliminate moss in the lawn due to heavy shade, replace the grass with a less fanciful one. Plant red fescue or meadow bluegrass.

If large areas are affected by moss and the above methods have proved ineffective, use chemicals to remove the moss or weeds.

Treat the clearing with a chemical solution on a warm, dry morning. After two days, water it. The moss will turn black two weeks after treatment. Rake it off and replenish the gaps with grass.

Weed control is effective in two ways – weeding or chemical treatment. The most reliable way to kill weeds is by hand, digging them up by the root. This gives good results, but is laborious and time-consuming. And in a large meadow it is almost unrealistic.

When there are many weeds and the area under the grass is large, it is better to use herbicides. Experts recommend that before landscaping a meadow, treat the area with herbicides of continuous action. When they dry out the weeds, sow the grass.

In a green and flowering meadow, use selective herbicides that kill a particular type of weed without damaging the lawn crops. Selective herbicides are good because they kill not only the stems but also the root system of the weeds. Chemical weed treatments are best done on a warm, windless day when the grass is dry.

To keep your glade green without weeds, regular mowing and watering are enough. They increase the density of the grass carpet and turfgrass, thereby suppressing weeds. Annual weeds will die from frequent mowing.

Lawn fertilization and nutrition

Fertilize the grass three times a year – in spring, summer and fall. Timely fertilization strengthens the grass and helps eliminate weeds.

Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for the amount of lawn fertilizer and the order in which it should be applied. If you over fertilize, you can harm your lawn and simply burn the grass.

When choosing what to fertilize your lawn with, consider seasonality. Spring and summer fertilizers contain a lot of nitrogen, essential for active grass growth. Fall fertilizer has more phosphorus and potassium, which strengthens roots and increases resistance to cold.

How do I fertilize my lawn?

After mowing, before watering. It is best to fertilize through a special sieve or with a spreader.

There is an opinion that mowed grass is also a good fertilizer for the lawn. This is a misconception. Grass clippings are useful as a protective layer for turfgrass during the hot season. With the onset of cold weather, it won’t protect against frost, so cover your lawn with cling film.

Lawn aeration and scarifying

Scarifying is the most effective procedure for clearing dry grass, moss, and plant debris from a meadow. By loosening and combing the soil, you will facilitate air and light access to the lower layers of grass and improve fertilizer penetration into the soil.

Scarify lawns as needed, several times a season: in spring after the snow melt, in summer – to remove the remains of grass clippings, in autumn – to clean the lawn from fallen leaves.

Tools for scarifying – fan or ordinary garden rake, lawn blower, scarifiers or special attachments on the lawnmower.

After scarifying, it is useful to aerify the lawn to make sure water, air and fertiliser can reach the roots. To do this, the soil is pierced to a depth of 10-15 cm. You can prick the soil with an ordinary pitchfork (several times a season), or with a pitchfork with hollow tines (once every 2-3 years). There are also special aerators: foot aerators, in the form of sandals worn on shoes with teeth, mechanical and electric.

After aerating, sprinkle coarse sand over the lawn to fill in the holes. Sanding improves soil permeability and renews the soil.

Lawn repair

Leveling and reseeding your lawn

Over time, grass ages and loses its density. If your lawn becomes “bald,” make lawn repairs. To keep your lawn looking well-maintained, resow any gaps in time. It’s best to do this when it’s cloudy or rainy. Before leveling or reseeding, comb the grass with a rake to remove dead plants. To properly reseed, cut out gaps, loosen the soil, add fertilizer, and sow the seeds.

If you need to level the landscaped area from knolls, trim the turf in the protruding areas, bend back and smooth out the excess soil. Do the same if tree roots have started to protrude on the lawn which can damage the lawnmower. Bend back the cut turf, remove the root and return the green layer to its previous position.

Lawn mulching

Mulching is the spreading of a special mulch over the surface of a meadow to correct irregularities in the soil, improve root nutrition, reduce moisture evaporation from the soil.

Mulching a meadow with different mixtures, depending on the type of soil. Often the mixtures include sand, peat and fertile soil mixed in different proportions, sometimes with the addition of leaf mulch.

Lawn mulch once a year, usually in early fall, having previously mowed it and cleaned from the felt.

It is equally important to earth the lawn once every five years in the spring or fall. Covering the ground with decomposed organic fertilizer will improve grass establishment and make the turf thicker. Spread the organic mix optimally at a ratio of 7-10 kg per 1m².

Lawn care calendar

Lawn care in spring

Lawn care in spring begins with the first thaw. The lawn after winter is full of moisture, weakened and easily damaged. In March, try not to walk over it too much to avoid potholes or footprint pits. This is especially dangerous for young lawns.

When the top layer of soil has dried, scarify and remove the resulting felt with a fan or regular rake. If you find pockets of grass disease, use a lawnmower to cut as low as possible all the plants in the affected area. Dig it up, loosen the soil with a rake, and only 10 days later sow new seeds.

Lawn care in summer

The main answer to the question “How to care for your lawn in summer” is to water it in time and mow it regularly. Your lawn may need replanting in midsummer. If you notice that the grass is starting to turn yellow, introduce spring fertilizer. By July and August the topsoil will compact little by little, so aerate and mulch to improve air exchange.

Fall lawn care. Getting your lawn ready for winter

Lawn care in September isn’t much different than in August. Mow and water as needed. If there are gaps in the grass carpet after the summer heat, reseed those areas. Fertilize your lawn in the fall in October, using special fall fertilizers. Do not use spring fertilizers with a lot of nitrogen, which the grass does not need with the onset of cold weather.

On a dry day, aerate your lawn to drain rainwater into deeper layers of soil. If this is not done, your lawn will become ice-crusted when frost arrives.

The last mowing of your lawn in the fall is done in late October through November. Ideally, before wintering the high The height of the grass stems should be 60-80 mm. Remove fallen leaves, branches and dry stems from the grass at regular intervals so they do not interfere with ventilation.

In winter, the lawn does not require treatment. The main thing is not to walk on it until there is a snow cover. On an icy lawn, it is advisable to break the ice crust.